Category: JOGLE 2017

Team Johnson set off in good time across the fields out of Gargrave 

After a few miles and a cattle encounter Cath, Josy and Suzanne took PJ back to the campsite to manage logistics for later in the day. The boys made solid progress over some undulating terrain to reach the lunch date in Lothersdale with my ex work colleague Paul Hopkins and his wife Caroline who really looked after us all – it was brilliant to catch up. Cath had some fun getting Betty along a few narrow lanes, and we all set off suitably refuelled heading for Ponden. Another couple of cattle episodes and some more undulating (steep) terrain later we marched on over Ickornshaw Moor in a Pennine rain shower before reaching the reservoir and camp for the night.

It was great to have company for the day, especially Drew for the first time. Big thanks to Josy also for the ginger biscuits that were waiting for us at the end.

After being in clear view last night, Pen-y-Ghent was in the clouds this morning but I never intended to do the extra Pennine Way miles anyway so I set off on the Yorkshire 3 Peaks path to where it intersects with the PW and descended straight to Dale Head and along the road to start the climb up to Fountains Fell Coming down and approaching Malham Tarn I had a sense of premonition and decided it was time to lose the waterproofs. Not long after I met a fantastic young couple James and Mina who are doing LEJOG in super fast time – respect! Almost immediately afterwards my path finally crossed that of Louise Anthony (Instagram alter ego – knit.bake.stitch.roam) who is also doing LEJOG and we have been following each other’s progress for at least 3 weeks. Amazing feeling to meet like that and stop for a chat then off on our separate ways. Quickly past Malham Tarn through Watlowes and down into the ever impressive Malham Cove for lunch. I then ploughed on through farmland and along the river to cover the last few miles to Gargrave. Josy and Simon Greenwood treated us to an Indian meal and I was then surprised by the arrival of son Drew, daughter Suzanne and son in law Joe who had come to walk with me on Saturday also.  

An ideal stage to get my legs working again after the second rest day, relatively short, just one big uphill out of Hawes for an hour or so, but now without the big backpack so the boots had a rest and I wore my Salomon walking shoes again. The rest day was very relaxed, a visit from daughter Suzanne and friends Penny and Mike who came armed with a lamb curry for dinner. Claire came to pick up Chris and brought a Victoria Sponge cake so we were pretty spoilt. On top of that, Cath led the fundraising effort round the campsite supported by Penny and collected £104 for PCUK – she really is unbelievable!!

After the uphill start I made good time and walked into the wind along  the side of Dodd Fell on an old Cam Road towards Ribblesdale with the familiar Yorkshire 3 Peaks of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent spread out and looming as dark shapes in front. I decided to make this an IPod day and marched along to my personal mix of 70s/80s punk/new wave, Lady Gaga, U2 etc. A great walking track is Rock Star by Pink!

Had lunch at the tranquil Ling Gill Bridge and filmed a long overdue video, before IPodding the last 3 miles to Horton where Cath was already set up in Betty. I’m past halfway now and over 600 miles. It’s all starting to seem like a long dream.

Chris and I had great food and a wet and misty night outside Britain’s highest pub but visibility improved as we got up and headed south towards into Swaledale and Wensleydale. The first few miles down to Keld were pretty straightforward – just one seemingly useless gate to negotiate before dropping down into the valley to Keld. We climbed the muddy, stony, tree rooted path up around the fell towards Thwaite as ominous dark clouds threatened rain around us and the wind grew stronger. We descended to Thwaite, got our heads down and began the 8 mile haul over Great Shunner Fell to Hardraw and Hawes. After a quick lunch at the top of the Fell we raced down into Hardraw to stay warm and stopped for a civilised afternoon tea and cake in the tea shop. We ambled the last 2 miles to our campsite at Hawes as the rains finally came before Cath returned with Betty, PJ and Suzie. I’m writing this on my second rest day in Hawes which has come at a great time. Almost half way or past half way already? I’ll only find out when I get to Lands End, I suppose. Anyway it was fantastic to share a couple of days with Chris we really had a good time!

Not many photos today – in fact just one!! Weather thoroughly gloomy all day drizzle and low cloud giving Chris and me a couple of directional problems over the moors out of Teesdale into Lunedale and Baldersdale then eventually to our only possible lunch shelter in the tunnel under the A66. It didn’t help either when my GPS froze so I had to disconnect the battery and lost my trip data. Today’s journey stats therefore based on my phone ViewRanger App. The conversation and banter kept our spirits up and we found a pink Manchester balloon some on Cotherstone Moor – possibly the furthest away one has been recovered?

We plodded on in the drizzle, choosing the road option to Tan Hill rather than the bog of Sleightholme Moor. Zero views and the long trudge made easier with Chris’s company as we talked our way eventually to the Inn and our camp for the night.

A long day but not much really to see. After an early rise, some foot surgery and a good breakfast I left Dufton feeling good and started the climb up towards High Cup, knowing there would be no view and not much visibility in the low cloud. I tried to persuade an Australian couple it would not be worth their hike but they insisted so we walked together up to the head of the valley and only knew we were there because the GPS told me. They turned round and headed off back to Dufton as I tracked along across the moor to cross Maize Beck before the long gravel track (worst path on the Pennine Way) along to Cauldron Snout and the scramble down the rocks next to the waterfall  I had a short lunch stop as the weather was improving then started along the boulder strewn path next to the river to Langdon Beck where I met Chris and Claire Robinson Chris is walking with me now for the next 2 days to Hawes. The last few miles down to Middleton past High Force and Low Force was a good chance for us to catch up on plenty of things as we dodged a number of tourists on this popular stretch. Added another useless stile to my collection before we arrived at a very busy campsite, had a couple of beers and a pizza but resisted the urge to join in the bingo!!

I had a peaceful (earplug aided) night in the bothy, amazing comfortable and rose early to a beautiful morning. Did not quite see the sunrise but sleep was more important. The views from the Hut were superb – a great way to start the day despite my complaining feet.As I hauled myself up to and over the summit of Cross Fell, the views of the Great Dun Fell golf ball loomedEventually over Little Dun Fell (a story for another day) and Great Dun Fell to the lovely cairn called Knock Old Man and the long descent down into Dufton with the distant skyline of the Lake District ahead of meAs most walkers will testify, going downhill is harder than going up. I am no different. It was a slow and often painful descent with a number of stops to give my sore feet a break. I was more than happy to take my time and finally arrived in Dufton close to midday.I had decided to treat myself to the Youth Hostel to avoid the need for pitching my tent, even though the predicted bad weather still showed no sign of coming. No surprises then that for the second time on this trek the Hostel was full, so I am on Grandie caravan park, and a nice hot shower later settled in the village shop – The Post Box Pantry – charging my devices, enjoying a cheeseburger and getting this blog up to date! Tomorrow afternoon I’m looking forward to meeting my co-father-in-law Chris who will walk with me down to Hawes.

I set off today in trepidation – Cath was going home for a few days leaving me to tackle some of the toughest PW sections carrying a full pack. It was even hotter than Thursday and with pain in my left heel I was anticipating a tough day. I warmed up by crossing the Tyne river heading for the South Tyne Trail which goes along an old railway line and would hopefully give me more shade than using the PW. There was also a welcome breeze along the cuttings as I followed the track on its gradual upward gradient to Alston. As I approached Slaggyford I met a lovely couple Dave and Jacqui Bird who are walking LEJOG too but at a slight more practical pace, taking around 95 days for their adventure After a quick chat and exchange of details we parted and at some point I crossed from Northumberland into Cumberland, thinking only of sausages!!I dragged myself into Alston and devoured an omelette and two pints of iced cordial and lemonade in the Cumberland hotel, still not knowing where I was going to spend the night. My mind was made up when I saw the forecast of thunderstorms on Saturday – I wanted to be over Cross Fell and into Dufton before any bad weather came along. So I pushed on along the South Tyne river back on the PW, had a brief stop and refreshment in Garrigill I girded my loins, took several deep breaths and set off up the steep, winding and very long Corpse Road up to Cross Fell – my target was Greg’s Hut, a mountain bothy not far from the summit, and hopefully not full with other walkers. Over 2 hours later I arrived very weary to find I was going to be alone in this remote hillside hut.So I had some food, cleaned myself up and watched the sunset before settling down to sleep with the sound of the rushing wind outside, looking forward to a shorter day and some much needed rest on Saturday…maybe even the FA Cup Final!!!

Got to Dufton with a half day spare so time to catch up on the last 3 days. Woke up in Stonehaugh to be greeted by mist and hoards of midges invading my tent. Still got the bites on my legs as a reminder. Packed up and set off by which time the sun was blazing and I was hoping for as much shade as possible, knowing there would not be much on Hadrians Wall later. Rejoining the PW I found another useless stile for my collectionThe tramp through Redesdale Forest was shady but boggy, although perhaps not as bad as I had been told by people I met the previous day. Eventually it was out into the sunlight and across the last 2 miles to the Whin Sill and Hadrians Wall where I had arranged to meet friends Lynda and Ray with their dog Luna. It was hot and hard work up and down between the milecastles as we made our way along the wall to Cawfields, stopping for lunch at the famous sycamore gap.I walked the last 2 miles or so to Haltwhistle alone as Lynda and Ray went ahead in their car to the camp site where Cath was waiting with cold beers at the ready. All the more cause to celebrate as I passed the 500 mile mark today.

The Border Forest campsite was delightful in great weather – not so sure how nice it would be in a storm though!! Set off on good time today with the aim of covering the 14 miles to Bellingham by 1pm for a lunch stop and a change of bags. Cath has gone to meet friends and they will rejoin me tomorrow at Hadrians Wall so I’m camping for the first time on this walk. 

I raced through the Kielder Forest and skipped a tricky section of the PW – a slightly longer but probably faster route with clear views across the moors, before ploughing across the heather covered Whitley Pike and then across farmland and down into Bellingham on time  – but not before an encounter with some lively young cows. I’m not comfortable with those beasts at the best of times. It was t-shirt weather and thankfully quite breezy on the open moors but a bit oppressive when sheltered from the wind, especially after lunch carrying the extra weight. As I climbed out of Bellingham and down the pretty Shitlington Crags to Shitlington Hall farmhow I love that name – the perspiration went into overdrive. My spirits were revived by a phone call from a good friend to encourage me and I made good time to get to Stonehaugh in beautiful sunshine. The camp site was occupied by a couple with a large tent and soon after a girl arrived walking the PW alone. I settled down to my spicy sausage and pasta meal thinking of Cath, Lynda and Ray tucking into steak at some country pub! It’s a tough life. 

Met a few PW walkers today – they all said I have some bog hopping to do tomorrow before I get to Hadrians Wall – looking forward to that!