An overnight decision to change route to Knighton meant a slightly longer day than planned but would get me 6 miles further along Offas Dyke Path to our planned campsite. Cath spent all day trying to sort out a Betty with an RAC escort to Ludlow without knowing whether she would be able to meet me or not. I was without a tent so there was not much choice really. So the first part of the day to Knighton was following the route in Andy Robinsons End to End Trail book, only backwards, which meant lost time, map misreads and some GPS checking to keep me on track. The route was OK – it passed through a couple of small villages, one with a tea-room highly recommended by the book – it was closed! The path was steep and muddy in parts, overgrown in others and a couple of rowdy cow fields, so I was feeling a bit frustrated by the time I reached Knighton and sat down for some lunch and tried to contact Cath for an update. The news was that she was going to make it to the campsite at Rockbridge around the same time as me. From Knighton I joined the Offas Dyke Path which, after a steep start undulated nicely, with some decent views before descending to Dolley Green where I followed the road to the camp site. Good news, my phone camera seemed to gave started working properly again. With better weather, Betty seemingly fixed, a short day in store tomorrow to Kington and Chris and Claire rejoining us, spirits were raised…what else could go wrong? Well as yet their are no photos for this post, overnight my phone died and will not wake up…need to come up with a plan.
Category: JOGLE 2017
John O’Groats – Lands End April-July 2017
JOGLE Day 42 12/06/17 Much Wenlock – Craven Arms 18 miles
A peaceful night and no motivation problems this morning, although still the niggling ache behind my right shoulder blade – ho hum! Weather was cool and dry for what appeared to be an almost straight line 18 miles up and along Wenlock Edge to Craven Arms. I was expecting great views of Wales to the northwest and Shropshire/Worcestershire to the southeast. Whilst the initial paths were good and I got the occasional glimpse of distant hills, the opportunities were few and far between. The day became a pleasant woodland hike interspersed with the odd summer meadow . Gradually for some reason the paths deteriorated into muddy mess and my boots ended the day dirtier than they have been on the entire trek so far.
I met a lovely couple Edward and Deborah Cole who are walking LEJOG in stages over several years and are aiming to get to the Pennine Way this time. We had a really nice chat and they gave me £20 for PCUK – amazing!
Eventually I left the woods and strode the final 3 miles or so down into Craven Arms where a mildly distressed explained the latest traumas with Betty (no speedometer and engine warning light coming on far too regularly – we hope its just electrical fault).
Our first Britstop tonight at the Stokesay Arms – good WIFI so using it to the full!
JOGLE Day 41 11/06/17 Wheaton Aston – Much Wenlock 22 miles
A wet night – the earplugs excelled again though, keeping out the sound of the rain and the A5 just the other side of the hedge. My plan to get the names of the 2 LEJOGers I met last night failed as they had already packed up and gone even before I opened my tent at 6.45am!! By the time I was ready to leave the tent had pretty much dried out so off I set, hoping for some clear paths and nice country lanes. The first field on the route was just full of rape seed, no path visible at all, so I consulted the map and made a small diversion, which took me across another farmed field but I was able to cross causing minimal damage. I then followed lanes past the historic Boscobel House before joining the Monarchs Way (route of King Charles II fleeing after defeat in the battle of Worcester). This took me past the allegedly haunted ruins of White Ladies Priory, through some muddy woodlands and onto tracks and roads towards my lunchtime meeting point at Kemberton. Today was the RAF Cosford airshow so the sky was busy with helicopters and formation spitfires. I made good time and arrived early in Kemberton to meet the party of Shirley (no stranger to you now!), Cazzie and Stephen (one of my nephews). After a bite of lunch Shirley, Stephen and I headed off to do the final 10 miles to Much Wenlock, looking forward to going through Ironbridge Gorge on the way. Things didn’t start well – a field path blocked by electric fence, and some overgrown paths before we suddenly emerged on Telford Golf Course. Navigation suddenly got difficult (OS maps don’t show the course layout, the Red Arrows zoomed overhead, and we got distracted watching some decidedly indifferent golf shots). The general sense of direction prevailed and after finding the path off the course through more overgrown woodlands we arrived at the top of the Incline Plane, descended a rough track alongside then underneath to reach a road which took us along the north of Ironbridge Gorge (we had decided we would cross over the Ironbridge itself). The gorge is very steep but the path we took rose gradually around the hillside through more woods then into fields for the final few miles to Much Wenlock where we go the news that Cath was on her way back with Betty (8 hours in total from York via Lincolnshire!) with her mum on board carrying more flapjacks. The guest walkers and support crew left Cath and I alone to resume the familiar motorhome routine.
JOGLE Day 40 10/06/17 Little Haywood – Wheaton Aston 16 miles
Had a great night sleeping at my parents in Stafford, Cath and Betty returned home for a trip to York for Penny & Mick’s 40th wedding anniversary party. Mum & Dad took me to the start at Seven Springs, mum planning to join me all day, and yes!! she has become a legend! Before all this I got news of a new donation to PCUK from some good friends in the US, £1000!!! I got quite emotional this morning- lost for words – everyone has been so kind it just hit me all at once.
So we set off and walked really well over Cannock Chase then through some decent farmland tracks before reaching the Canal to Penkridge, passing under the M6 on the way. Dad met us for a lunch stop in Penkridge where I learned my eldest daughter Sam had had a car accident hopefully not too serious but possibly affecting Cath’s plans for the next two days (I only have maps to Craven Arms!!!)
Dauntless mum and me carried on across more fields and lanes towards Wheaton Aston – one small route finding hiccup and a rest stop at All Saints Church in Lapley before the final 2 miles to the campsite. Dad met us and after tent pitching we drove to a nearby pub for burgers, beer and Scotland v England match. Returned to camp in rain, met a guy who used to work for same company as me. Whilst chatting to him 2 more campers, clearly endtoenders going north, arrived. Had a brief chat with them also – will get their names if I see them tomorrow morning.
JOGLE Day 39 09/06/17 Uttoxeter – Little Haywood 15 miles
I was really happy today to be joined by my sister Karen and my mum (74 years young) for this farmland and towpath stage essentially along the Staffordshire Way. Karen and I left Uttoxeter and started to fight our way through overgrown hedgerows, long grass and over some almost impossible stiles before the coup de grace, a hidden path across the middle of a field of rape seed well over head high. Karen lost her water bottle and walk guide somewhere in the midst of all of this – we did not go back to look. On top we had a couple of heavy rain showers before reaching Abbots Bromley for lunch. Amazingly we had only done 7 miles !!
After lunch with my parents and Cath, my mum stepped up to join Team Johnson for the afternoon. We kept to lanes where we could but still had a few fields to cross and my mum showed fantastic agility getting over a few stiles. We passed by Blithfield reservoir through a couple of small villages and the odd useless stile and joined the towpath of the Trent and Mersey Canal for the last few miles to Little Haywood, passing a rather large gathering of Canada geese families with their young going for an afternoon swim. Our progress was much better and we arrived ahead of schedule so treated ourselves to a well earned drink at the Lamb & Flag before strolling the last half mile to the Seven Springs car park on the edge of Cannock Chase. Staying at my parents tonight in my home town of Stafford – first night in a proper bed for what seems like a very long time.
JOGLE Day 38 08/06/17 Heathcote – Uttoxeter 24 miles
First decision today was whether to risk more limestone torture in wet slippery dales or a longer more tedious Tissington Trail. Knowing that Dovedale is a popular spot I opted for the dales route – turned out to be a good decision as I made swift progress through Biggin Dale then followed the rolling river Dove through green valleys and limestone outcrops all the way to Dovedale 7 miles later, on the way moving into my home county of Staffordshire. Rain was intermittent and heavy at times so I was once again sweating off pounds I don’t have under the waterproofs.
After Dovedale the terrain changed and the frustration mounted as I yomped through field after field of sheep, boisterous cows, knee high grass, rickety, overgrown stiles and had to continually stop to check my map in the rain – was not sorry to see the back of the Limestone Way when I eventually got to Rocester.
I joined The Staffordshire Way and the frustration got worse. More map issues, head high nettles and fallen trees along the river (the same river Dove that had been so pleasant earlier). This was followed by more fields eventually passing beneath the busy A50 and a circuitous arrival at Uttoxeter racecourse which added probably an extra half mile to my day.
Some significant moments though as today I passed Middle Mayfield, the village where my son-in-law Joe used to live and walked through the grounds of Abbotsholme School where my daughter Suzie studied for her A Levels. Even Rocester football ground held some memories of my distant youth. Overall an unnecessarily tiring day, mentally and physically.
JOGLE Day 37 07/06/17 Edale – Heathcote 20 miles
Good news – no rain today! But still very windy as I set off from Edale with a good friend, Tony Britton. We climbed up past Mam Tor and headed south across fields to pick up the Limestone Way and a comfortable few miles before descending a long track down to Hay Dale, the first of 3 dales we would walk through. It was flat and grassy so I thought our scheduled lunch meeting with Cath, Betty and Debbie Britton would be no problem….until we got to Peter Dale where the ground was sodden and evidently cattle trodden. As we skirted around the mud the cows duly appeared in our way so we skirted them too but progress was slow. We then came to Monks Dale and bad got worse as we picked our way through a slippery limestone jungle, clambering over and ducking under fallen trees progress got even slower. As we eventually reached the end of the dale I slipped on a step and lost my maps but fortunately realised soon after and went back to find them. We were already late for lunch so had a quick route change and trekked up a long farm track around the hill towards Taddington where the girls were waiting.
Debbie and Tony exchanged places after a belated lunch and Debbie walked with me for the afternoon through the villages of Flagg and Monyash across more fields and country lanes. We picked up the old railway line Tissington Trail and strode out the last few miles to Heathcote in good time for dinner. Sadly PJ has left with Debbie and Tony to stay with them for some time to see if his paw will heal.
I have more dales to walk along tomorrow, maybe I’ll rethink the route…
JOGLE Day 36 06/06/17 Crowden – Edale 18 miles
Relying on photos from other sources now but will find a way round it. In short this morning was probably the worst weather I have ever walked in. It started ok in Crowden – heavy rain and some gusting wind as Shirley and I met Chris by Torside reservoir and we plodded up the steep climb to Clough Edge. We could see the wind and cloud swirling around as we negotiated the slippy path and descended to cross the raging Wildboar Grain. A couple of brave leaps later we were heading up towards Bleaklow Head with the strong wind and rain at our backs, not realising how sheltered we still were. As we emerged onto the summit we became exposed to the 60mph gusts and followed the path/stream down towards the main road 3 miles or so away. We had to cross the stream, Hern Clough, several times as it was impassable on the path, climbing up on to peat bogs the only option. The last mile was on a better path but totally exposed to the wind and rain coming in from the side. It was freezing cold and all three of us were feeling it. Knowing what was to come after the A57 (Mill Hill and Kinder Edge) I decided we should instead head east down the main road and take refuge in the Snake Pass Inn 3 miles along. Less than 1 hour later 3 drowned rats squelched into the warmth of the bar, ordered coffee and reassessed the situation. Shirley was struggling with her ankle, Chris was shivering like crazy and decided to call a taxi to go back to his car at the B&B in Torside. I was determined to get as close to Edale as possible without going too high and was familiar with a different route around the eastern side of Kinder plateau. I checked on my GPS and decided I was going for it. Cath arrived in Betty and took care of Shirley, made me eat two soggy sandwiches and off I went. It was another 2 miles along the A57, not too bad considering the conditions, and then a track up and around the side of the plateau, eventually turning back into the wind. Even at a lower level the wind gusts were crazy but the rain eased off so I got to Edale just before 5pm. Without elaborating why, we did not stay at the Edale campsite (simply don’t use Coopers!!), got warm, dry and fed in the Old Nags Head and found another camp site about 20 minutes drive away. So goodbye to the Pennine Way and a small celebration on passing the 700 mile mark today. Being joined by more friends, Debbie and Tony Britton tomorrow, at least it should be drier!!
JOGLE Day 35 05/06/17 Blackstone Edge – Crowden 19 miles
MONOCHROME – Soaked to the skin before I even started. The views to North Wales from the White House Pub the previous night had been replaced by low black cloud, heavy rain and increasing winds. Dauntless I set off up over Blackstone Edge with no shelter until after about 3 miles I had crossed the M62 and arrived at the white burger van near the motorway junction. I took brief shelter and ploughed on across the moor to White Hill with its newly painted white trig point. Saw a few other walkers doing the PW – idiots like me. Going over Millstone Edge I was getting battered by the gales and decided to do a video only to discover my phone would not work – do no photos. Nowhere to shelter for lunch I just kept going past Standedge and Wessenden reservoirs, over a main road and faced the raging torrents of Dean Clough brook, swelled by the last 2 days rain and impossible to cross at the normal point. I scrambled 50 yards upstream to find a place narrow enough for me dare to leap over. Once I regained the path it was an hour of slogging on slabs, bog and mud up and over Black Hill (another newly painted white trig point) then down towards Crowden Brook. There were several points where again I had to leap across and wade through the fast flowing stream until the path gained height taking me to the cliff edge walk over Laddow Rocks and the long descent to the camp site at Crowden. I managed to get my phone working but in video/selfie mode only – still no photos and an even worse weather forecast for tomorrow where I will be joined again by Shirley and Chris Zanetti, a friend from Hull – hope they are prepared!
JOGLE Day 34 04/06/17 Ponden – Blackstone Edge 19 miles
Expected rain today and got wet before lunch then perspired for a while before ditching the waterproofs around midday. Energising climb out of Ponden up to Top Withens (google it!) with views back towards Haworth and the path we took yesterday.
Cracking on I descended towards the reservoirs at Widdop and got mistaken for a participant in the Hebden Bridge Boundary race (google that as well!). I sped on past Gorple and over the moor to Colden with the later target of Stoodley Pike now visible on the horizon. The steep descent into Hebble Hole and climb back out drove the waterproof off decision as I raced to make the 1pm meeting with Cath in Charlestown and welcomed the return of Jan and Dave Smith, Dave would be walking this afternoon. Lunch over and rain possible, Dave and I ambled quite comfortably up the path, past another useless stile and crested the final climb to Stoodley Pike, now rather larger than earlier in the day!
The wind was getting chilly so we kept going for the haul over the moor, around a diversion at Warland reservoir before eventually conversing our way along the track past 2 more reservoirs to The White House pub and our camp for tonight. The views across the Manchester conurbation to the south west and all the way to Snowdonia were fabulous. Penultimate day on the PW tomorrow.